trick garage door installation orlando
Senin, 16 November 2015
How to Install a Dog Door the Right Way
For sliding glass dog doors, see what kinds of fasteners and springs the kit comes with. Many times, these are the very easiest of pet doors to install, so if you are not a very handy person, you may want to consider this type of dog door. Generally, the door comes with a tall panel that slides into your door's track and nestles between your sliding glass door and the pet door unit. Clamping springs simply get squeezed with your forefinger and thumb to lock these pet doors into place. Look for a sliding glass pet door that has a lock on it for added security. It would not be a good idea to give thieves easy access to your home simply so you can have a dog or cat door available!
The next most common type of pet door is the Garage Door Installationstyle. These are meant for the bottom center of your door and become a permanent fixture to the door. Unlike the patio sliding door styles, this type of door cannot be removed without leaving a permanent hole in the door. To install one of these doors, choose a place where your dog can access it day or night. The side door leading out from the garage is a popular place to install a door like this because many people have their dog sleep in the garage at night. This allows the dog to be able to go from the garage to the backyard with ease during the night. You'll need to purchase a jigsaw, a thin-bladed mechanized saw, to cut a sufficient hole in the door. If you have a solid wood door, a stronger saw may be necessary. Simply cut the hole to the size of the pet door and place the pieces in the hole. Be sure to use a leveler to install it horizontally straight. Screws that come with the kit will fasten the dog door to your door on both sides.
These two types of pet doors are great because they work well and are easy to install. Products come with installation instructions as well a phone number where you can ask the manufacturer for additional help. Give your pets the freedom to come in and out of the house with a new pet door today!
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How To Build A Garage Construction Costs, DIY Garage Plans, Building Design, Builder Prices
There many items to consider while in the early planning stage such as:
Garage size: One car, two car, or even a three Garage Door Installation can be designed with various sizes, but the lot and homeowners budget are generally the limiting factors. Local building codes vary, but typically a structure must not encroach within eight feet of property lines in rural areas and from zero to four feet in city limits. Detached garages must also be set back from other buildings by a minimum of eight feet, but this must be confirmed with local building offices as bodes vary. One important consideration is roof overhang. Eave and gable end overhangs are typically 12 24 (although less than 12 is common in windy areas) and must be considered when determining garage size and placement.
One method of determining the perfect size is to add 12′ to 15′ of width for each vehicle. If planning to use the sides of the garage for storage this will require another two feet of width per side. The length should be a minimum of 22′ and add four to ten feet for a work bench and storage. A two car garage could be calculated as 2 x 12′ +4′ for storage along each wall = 28′ x 22′ long without a work bench.
Common garage sizes include:
1.One car: Common sizes include 12′ x 24′, 14′ x 24′, and 16′ x 24′. A length of twenty four feet is pretty much the minimum if you have a full size truck and even with a small or mid-size car there will be little wiggle room at twenty or twenty two feet.
2.Two car: The most common garage size in many states and provinces is 24′ x 24′ because many building codes required an engineered drawing and two inspections by a structural engineer for concrete floating slabs (monolithic) larger than this size. If space is scarce and the two cars are small to mid-size a 20′ wide garage may adequate, but certainly not comfortable.
3.Three car: There are many three car garage sizes due to more room for numerous designs and homeowners often have larger budgets when considering these larger construction projects. Common sizes are 36′ 42′ wide by 26′ 30′ long.
Foundation: floating slab (monolithic) and slab with frostwall are the two most common foundation options. The floating slab is less expensive and easier to build, but often require an engineered drawing and two inspections for larger pads (i.e. 24′ x 24′). In cold weather climates many contractors install 2.5 foundation foam under the concrete to reduce heaving during freeze/thaw events. Engineered floating slabs in cold climates usually require this with an addition two feet extending out around the perimeter of the slab.
Adding 6′ x 6′ #10 wire mesh to the slab is an inexpensive method of increasing the floor strength and reducing cracking of the concrete. Most contractors install floating slabs with a thickened concrete perimeter 12 16 thick around the outer 16 24 of the perimeter. Adding two rows of #4 rebar will increase the edges. Concrete strength should be a minimum of 3,000psi and many contractors use 4,000 and 4,500 psi as the additional cost is minimal. Another consideration is ordering concrete with fibermesh, and macro-synthetic fiber used for secondary reinforcement of concrete. Local concrete suppliers can provide costs for adding this to concrete. Slab thickness is dependent on the concrete strength and reinforcement designs, however a good rule of thumb is to pour a 4 or thicker slab.
Frostwall minimum depth is determined by local building codes and is typically 48 in cold climates and 36 in more moderate areas. Once the trench is excavated a footing approximately 12 wide by 8 thick is formed and poured and a keyway is etched the length of the footing to prevent movement of the concrete wall. The frostwall is formed and poured on the on the footing and anchor bolts are installed in the to attach the walls to the foundation. The concrete slab is then poured to designed thickness. Obviously this foundation system requires more time and expense.
Wall construction: If the garage is going to be insulated now or possibly any time in the future the wall studs size is important as 2 x 6 studs allow more insulation that can meet building code requirements (for garages with apartments) than 2 x 4 studs. Of course, 2 x 6 studs are stronger, which results in a more structurally sounds building.
Walls height: Walls are generally 8′, but 9′ and 10′ walls are common. In city downtown areas there is often a height restriction on structures, such as less than 16′ to the roof peak based on the average height from the four corners measuring at grade. This means that you can get a little extra height if the garage is nestled into a bank with a concrete curb or retaining wall on this end and backfilling to top of retaining wall. Another method to maximize height in these areas is to pour a 12 concrete curb on the concrete slab perimeter and backfill earth up to the top of the curb and grade away from the structure. This method can gain 12 of height while still meeting the height restrictions (confirm this will local building offices prior to implementing this strategy).
Garage door placement: The garage doors can be on the gable end or the eave side. A few things to consider:
1.Existing house design may dictate the direction of the roof line. A method to assist visualize this is to take a picture of the house and include the area where the garage will be built. Print two copies of the picture and hand draw in the garage using both the gable and eave options.
2.If the garage will be built in a cold climate the garage doors in the gable end is a better design as snow and ice will slide down the eave end.
3.Flexibility with the garage doors in the gable end allow height for a future car port.
Roof style: Often the roof style is dictated by the existing house, for example if the house has a hip roof this would be a good option for the garage. If this is a DIY project and the homeowner is building the garage it should be noted that a hip roof is more difficult to build than installing standard trusses. Roof pitch must be considered as well and often this should match the existing house. Roof pitch less than 4/12 (rises 4 for every 12 of run or length) is not recommended due to increased chance of water leaks. Higher pitch roofs with certain truss designs can allow for storage, loft, or even apartments above the main level. The most common roof trusses for garage roof design include:
1.Standard Fink: This is the most common residential truss.
2.Double fink: Designed to handle high weight loads for higher snow load requirements.
3.Attic: Common for designs that allow storage above the main floor. Access can be stairs or attic drop-down stairs and the option available may be dictated by local building codes.
4.Scissor: This options provides cathedral (vaulted) ceilings that provides more interior ceiling height. For example, a 24′ x 24′ garage with an 8/12 pitch may have a ceiling height of 12′ in the center and 8′ at the wall. This system is usually weighted against building with regular fink trusses and higher walls.
If this is a DIY garage project dont forget to order two gable trusses for each gable end. Otherwise two regular trusses will require wood filling for attaching sheathing and siding (not too mention the building inspector may not pass the framing inspection. If insulating the ceiling consider ordering raised heel trusses to allow adequate insulation between the wall top plate and the roof sheathing. This is the only way to meet many attic insulation level requirements (i.e. R40).
Garage plans: Once decisions are made on the above items it is time to get the Garage Door Installation for the building permit application and the builder. It is important to obtain good quality garage plans that are easy to follow, accurate, and provide a materials list (well, a material list is not important, but it will certainly save a lot of time). There are several websites that offer garage plans create by dozens and hundreds of different company so consistency and quality control are something to keep in mind. There are a couple of companies that do their own in-house drafting and a search of the internet should find these companies. Another option is to hire a local draftsperson to create the garage plans.
Plot (plat) plan: The building compliance department will require a drawing showing (site plan) the lot with existing structures, proposed structure, and property lines with measurements indicating distances between property lines and structures. This can be a hand drawn diagram of a marked up copy of the plot/plat plan. The building department may require a survey to confirm accuracy of measurements for precise garage location requirements.
Building Permit: Make an appointment to meet with a building inspector to discuss the project and submit the garage plans, material list, and site plan to the building department. A building permit may be issued at this time or the building inspector will require a few days to a couple of weeks to review the documents.
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Home DIY Series Protect Your Place in Winter
In this section, we would like to introduce you how to protect your property, reduce energy cost and repairing cost for your home sweet home this winter.
Prevent Electrical Shock
Some people would have leectrical outlets near water, often in their bathrooms or kitchen, for using hair dryer or electrical cooking device. If you have some, consider to have ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCI) that protect you from a shock (these are the outlets with "test" and "reset" buttons). Regular check the GFCI to make sure it works. Press the test button, and the reset button should pop out. Success? Push the reset button back in. Garage Door Installation an outlet if needed.
Cost: $10 to $15 for a GFCI
If you are not a very good DIY electrician, it will cost you another $100 to hire professional one to install the electrical outlet.
Prevent harmful pests
Building inspector Dick Edwards, vice president of Pacific InterWest Building Consultants, stated in his report that mice and other vermins like to come in your warm house to hide from the cold outside in winter. To protect your place from those harmful pests, check your home for signs of animals, such as droppings, smells, or noises, and look for holes in the screens of the foundation vents. Your garage is another weak point. Once there, pests can climb into your walls and attic, where they\'ll be harder and more expensive to remove.
Cost: $100 to $200 for a single visit from a professional pest control
To prevent pest living in your garage, the gap between any garage doors and the slab should be no more than half an inch.
Tighten the seals
The water leakage comes from poorly sealed caulking around tube, showers, sinks lead to increasing in water cost and even damage your floors, walls and ceilings below. Worn out or poorly sealed caulking around your tubs, showers, and sinks can lead to water damage to your floors, walls, and the ceilings below.
Cost: An average bathroom or kitchen usually need a $5 tube.
If you spot cracks or gaps, remove the old caulking and reapply with bathroom caulk
Smooth your garage door
To help your Garage Door Installation and close more quickly, remember to penetrate oil into the hinges occasionally. Next, to prevent the door from shutting on someone, check your safety reverse mechanism by waving a broom in front of the electric eye while the door is going down.
Cost: $7 for a can of WD-40 oil
Secure and fasten your garage door by regularly penetrate oil
Well prepared for a fire
Remember to check your fire extinguisher once a year to be sure it\'s still charged. If not, consider to replace with a new one. You should buy one that it\'s not too heavy to handle, and can work on both kitchen and electrical fires.
Cost: $40
The multipurpose fire extinguisher labeled "ABC" is recommended by NFPA.
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Minggu, 07 Juli 2013
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